Repairing cracked/missing lacquer - any suggestions?

Bungo

Active member
Hi all,

I took delivery this week of my latest acquisition, a Prussian Reserve Pioneer officer's pickelhaube.

The lacquer finish is cracked and missing in several spots. I've seen b.loree's post about "fixin yer leather hat" and I can correct the slightly caved-in crown, but does anyone have advice on how to repair (or at least hide) the missing sections of shellac? I saw in a post elsewhere to use shellac mixed with lamp oil, but this sounds dubious to me???

I like the patina, so I'd prefer to spot-fix the small sections affected and not resurface the entire bowl, but I'm open to resurfacing the whole thing if someone has a brilliant method?

Thanks, bungo
 
Not lamp oil, but lamp black (collected from the glass chimney/globe of an old-fashioned lamp). Aniline dye pigment powder seems to work, too. I've used shellac flakes melted in denatured alcohol to make spot repairs. Dulling the bright spots can be accomplished with very fine steel wool. It takes a while for the repaired areas to dry and multiple coats are generally needed.
 
pointystuff said:
Not lamp oil, but lamp black (collected from the glass chimney/globe of an old-fashioned lamp). Aniline dye pigment powder seems to work, too. I've used shellac flakes melted in denatured alcohol to make spot repairs. Dulling the bright spots can be accomplished with very fine steel wool. It takes a while for the repaired areas to dry and multiple coats are generally needed.

Thanks pointystuff, that's great advice. How do you apply it - with a paintbrush? I also own a modelling airbrush, which could give more seamless results?
 
I've tried it both ways.

Bungo said:
pointystuff said:
Not lamp oil, but lamp black (collected from the glass chimney/globe of an old-fashioned lamp). Aniline dye pigment powder seems to work, too. I've used shellac flakes melted in denatured alcohol to make spot repairs. Dulling the bright spots can be accomplished with very fine steel wool. It takes a while for the repaired areas to dry and multiple coats are generally needed.

Thanks pointystuff, that's great advice. How do you apply it - with a paintbrush? I also own a modelling airbrush, which could give more seamless results?
 
I use a small paint brush. You must sand the surface between coats and apply multiple coats to fill in and match up with the original finish. This takes a long time. The original finish on the more modern hauben was sprayed on.
 
Thanks guys. Now I just need to find myself an old hurricane lamp! ;)

I might invest in a beaten up old cheapish helmet to try my technique on first. I'd hate to stuff up my expensive Pioneer helmet on my first attempt.
 
There is a black powder dye available from Lea Valley Tools here in Canada. They also have the shellac flakes and Shellac thinner. It takes awhile to dissolve the flakes. They also have to be ground up to help the dissolving.
 
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