Dry Cracks on Pickelhaube

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karatekutya

New member
Hi everyone,

I’d really appreciate some advice regarding my Pickelhaube. The leather shell is in decent overall condition, but it has developed quite noticeable dry cracking on the surface. Structurally it still seems stable, but visually the cracks are quite prominent and take away from the overall look.

My goal is not to restore it to a “like new” condition, but rather to:
- reduce the visual impact of the cracks
- properly condition the leather
- and ensure long-term preservation

I’ve seen mixed opinions about using leather conditioners and even shoe polish. Some suggest products like Lexol or Saphir Renovateur, while others warn against anything that might alter the original finish or patina.

So I wanted to ask:
- What would be the safest way to make these dry cracks less visible?
- Is a light leather conditioner acceptable in this case?
- Would a very thin layer of black shoe polish be too much, or acceptable if done carefully?
- Any products or methods you would personally recommend (or avoid)?

I want to do this the right way without damaging the helmet or hurting its value, just improving its appearance slightly and preventing further drying.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Welcome to the forum. These finish cracks are common and don't effect value. The finish on these helmets is primarily shellac which cracks when the leather shell contracts or expands due to environmental conditions (humidity/dryness). In extreme heat conditions, for example storage in an attic, the shellac literally melts and bubbles. A helmet kept in dry conditions may have missing patches of shellac. In this case, I would simply apply some black shoe polish to fill in and hide these cracks.
 
Usually, this phemonenum is called spidering on these haubes. Quite common to see it, after all those years. I agree with Brian, some shoepolish would sort this out/ make it less visible. Some of my helmets have this too.
 
b.loree said:
Welcome to the forum. These finish cracks are common and don't effect value. The finish on these helmets is primarily shellac which cracks when the leather shell contracts or expands due to environmental conditions (humidity/dryness). In extreme heat conditions, for example storage in an attic, the shellac literally melts and bubbles. A helmet kept in dry conditions may have missing patches of shellac. In this case, I would simply apply some black shoe polish to fill in and hide these cracks.
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Thank you very much, I really appreciate your advice I will definitely follow it!

This is my first Pickelhaube, so I wasn’t entirely sure about the correct storage or how to properly care for the lacquer. It’s a beautiful piece, with no deformation to the helmet body at all, so naturally I want to give it the best possible care and preserve its condition for the future. 🙂
 

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wow that is one tall spike top!

after the shoe polish, keep out of direct sunlight, and try to keep it in 50% humidity or close to it if you can, I know this can be hard to do. to little moisture they can dry out, too much and the leather can rot.

James
 
J.LeBrasseur said:
wow that is one tall spike top!

after the shoe polish, keep out of direct sunlight, and try to keep it in 50% humidity or close to it if you can, I know this can be hard to do. to little moisture they can dry out, too much and the leather can rot.

James
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Thank you for the advice 🙂

Is there any specific product you would recommend?
 
I have both a humidifier and dehumidifier in my collection rooms, and adjust based on time of year, it takes diligence to stay on top if it, but this stuff is over 100 years old and needs are TLC.

Also depends on where u live and what kind of Swings you may have in humidity levels
 
The shape and length of that spike is unusual. This fashion fad of tall spikes got so bad that the German Army had to create spike height regulations to calm things down.
 
J.LeBrasseur said:
I have both a humidifier and dehumidifier in my collection rooms, and adjust based on time of year, it takes diligence to stay on top if it, but this stuff is over 100 years old and needs are TLC.

Also depends on where u live and what kind of Swings you may have in humidity levels
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Thank you! 🙂 I live in the UK, so I’ll sort it out here.

And regarding shoe polish if I end up needing it, which brand would you recommend?
Thanks
 
b.loree said:
The shape and length of that spike is unusual. This fashion fad of tall spikes got so bad that the German Army had to create spike height regulations to calm things down.
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Thats Really interesting
did the height of the spike indicate any difference in rank or anything else? As we can clearly see here, it is very noticeably tall.
 
J.LeBrasseur said:
wow that is one tall spike top!

after the shoe polish, keep out of direct sunlight, and try to keep it in 50% humidity or close to it if you can, I know this can be hard to do. to little moisture they can dry out, too much and the leather can rot.

James
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That's the "Poster Child" for why they implemented a dress regulation restricting the height of spikes. Nice looking helmet though.
 
I have always used kiwi shoe polish but that is just what is mostly sold here in Canada. Length of spike has nothing to do with rank. All officer helmets were private purchase items (he paid for it) so your owner wanted to "strut his stuff"! :) It was a fashion statement.
 
karatekutya said:
Thank you! 🙂 I live in the UK, so I’ll sort it out here.

And regarding shoe polish if I end up needing it, which brand would you recommend?
Thanks
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I use dubbin rather than polish if that helps. Any UK brand does the trick. Put a bit on your finger and rub it in with a circular motion. No need to use a brush.
 
tony v said:
I use dubbin rather than polish if that helps. Any UK brand does the trick. Put a bit on your finger and rub it in with a circular motion. No need to use a brush.
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Thanks 🙏🏻🙋🏼‍♂️ i bought a shoetreats from homebargains and its just crazy how good and gentle covers the "spiderwebs" i was amazed
 
Never "grease" a pointed helmet. If that’s the case, the helmet is irreparably damaged. The grease clogs, molds, and stains the inner silk!
Everything is getting sticky! The only thing to do is to moisturize the strap of the "troupe" chinstrap, or the inside of the scale chinstrap with glycerin.
 
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